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[Deltic Design] [Deltic
Manual] [PTF 9-16] [PTF 17-22] [Osprey
Manual]
[Weapons] [Other
Patrol Craft]
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[ TOC
] [ Chap I ] [ Chap
II ] [ Chap III ] [ Chap
IV ] [ Chap V ] [ Appendix ]
CHAPTER V
ASSEMBLY AN DISASSEMBLY
SECTION I
REMOVABLE DECK SECTIONS
REFERENCES
SOFT PATCHES
There is a removable deck section in both the forward and oft decks of
the boat designed for removal of tanks. The forward hatch, between frames
ii and 13, is for removal of the portable water tank, while the aft hatch,
between frames 44 and 47, is for removal of the fuel storage tank, oil and
coolant storage tank and fuel manifold tanks.
To remove these deck sections, one must do the following:
-
On the aft hatch disconnect the battery vent lines and I
adder.
-
Remove all the flat head bolts securing the aluminum covering strip
and remove the aluminum covering strip.
-
Remove the aluminum plates used to splice the deck beams and deck
stringers.
-
Pushing up from the underneath, the hatch is then removed
.
Reinstallation of these hatches is done just the reverse of the above
procedure. It should be noted that the hatch is made watertight by a strip
of chromate-impregnated felt laid under the aluminum covering strip.
ENGINE ROOM HATCH
The engine room hatch is an all aluminum weldment of diamond plate and
structural shapes. To remove the engine hatch, the following must be
done.
-
Drain both header tanks and disconnect the three lines leading from
the engines to them.
-
Remove the light fixture and its respective wire clips and stow the
light outboard of the port engine.
-
Remove the two brackets supporting the control cables to the
starboard main engine.
-
Remove the "J" bolts around the perimeter of the
hatch.
-
Remove the dinghy.
Using the dinghy tie down brackets, rig a three legged sling and lift
the hatch off with a crane.
NOTICE: One should be careful to note that the rubber gasket has not
become bonded to the deck combing due to heat. It is best to check this
before lifting the hatch.
The hatch is reinstalled in the reverse of the above procedure.
CHAPTER V
ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY
SECTION II
SHAFT LINE
REFERENCES
-
PTF-17-203-4315039 - Alignment Plan
-
PTF-17-203-4315040 - Propeller Shaft and Coupling
-
PTF-17-203-4315051 - Shaft and Propeller Arrangement
-
PTF-17-203-4315053 - Stern Tube
-
PTF-17-145-4315018 - Docking Plan
REMOVING THE PROPELLER
The propeller is removed by the following procedure:
-
Remove six (6) set screws ( 2 securing the nut to the wheel. in
each hole)
-
Using the spanner supplied with the boat, back' off the nut about
three turns. Removing the nut completely will allow the propeller to
slide off the shaft when it breaks loose from the taper. This could
cause possible injury to personnel as well as damage the wheel.
-
Using a propeller extractor, apply pressure until the wheel comes
off the taper.
-
The propeller can now be removed from the shaft.
NOTICE: The weight of the propeller is 296 lb. Suitable precautions
should be taken.
The propeller is reinstalled in the reverse of the above procedure. A
suitable lubricant such as white lead should be used between shaft and the
propeller to ease the next removal. The new propeller should be tried
without the key and its position marked. When the key is then in place,
the propeller should pull up on the taper at least as far as it did
without the key. This assures that the key is not pushing the propeller
off center.
REMOVING THE PROPELLER SHAFT
The propeller shaft is removed by the following procedure.
-
Remove the propeller.
-
Disconnect the propeller coupling from the vee-drive.
-
Loosen the shaft packing gland and slide the shaft back.
-
Remove the lock plate and nut securing the coupling and remove the
coupling.
-
Remove the coupling key.
The shaft may now be removed. This process may be eased by the
application of a rubber lubricant to the shaft. If a suitable lubricant is
not available, water will suffice. The shaft weighs approximately 750 lbs.
Appropriate precautions should be taken to support the weight as the shaft
is extracted. The Docking Plan shows the clearances necessary to remove
the shaft.
Reinstallation of the shaft is done in the reverse order of the above
procedure.
REMOVING RUBBER SHAFT BEARINGS
Should replacement of the rubber shaft bearing become necessary, they
should be removed as follows:
STERN TUBE
-
Remove the propeller shaft.
-
Remove the end cap from the outer stern tube housing.
-
Remove the four set screws securing the bearing in the
housing.
-
Using a bearing extractor with a 5-5/16 " dia. puller plate,
the bearing can be pulled from the stern tube.
Reinstalling the bearing is done in the reverse of the above procedure,
however, it should be noted that the new bearing should be a light tap fit
in the stern tube. The set screw holes should be counter bored into the
bearing to assure the bearing does not turn in the housing.
STRUT
-
Remove propeller shaft.
-
Remove the rope guard.
-
Remove the set screws securing the bearing in the strut.
-
Using a suitable puller and gripping forward of the spacer ring in
the strut, the bearing may be extracted from the aft end of the
strut.
NOTE: It is not advisable to try to drive the bearing out of the strut
as this will have a tendency to loosen the strut from the hull.
The bearing in the strut is reinstalled in a similar fashion to that of
the stern tube.
PACKING THE SHAFT STUFFING BOX
The stuffing box is packed with six rings of 3/8 " x
3/8" flax packing. The packing gland is adjusted by tightening the
hex nuts on either side of the gland.
The stuffing box may be repacked by removing the nuts and sliding the
gland up the shaft. The old packing must then be removed before new
packing is installed.
Once replaced, the gland should be retightened to stop almost all water
from coming in, but not so tight as to cause overheating and subsequent
burning of the packing. A small trickle of water through the gland while
running is normal.
CHAPTER V
ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY
SECTION III
STEERING GEAR
REFERENCES
-
PTF-17-203-4315065 - Steering Arrangement Mounting
-
PTF-17-519-4315072 - Rudder
-
PTF-17-119-4315073 - Rudder Port
-
PTF-17-145-4315018 - Docking Plan
REMOVING RUDDER
The rudder is held in place by four bolts through the tiller and will
drop out of the boot if these bolts are removed. The procedure for
removing the rudders is as follows:
-
Disconnect the hydraulic cylinder from the tiller.
-
Disconnect the tiller cross connect bar at the tiller.
-
Disconnect and remove either the emergency steering shaft or the
rudder angle indicator depending on which rudder is to be
removed.
-
Using an eye holt in the top of the rudder, rig a cable to the
bracket under the deck above to support the rudder.
-
Remove the four bolts in the tiller.
-
Slide the tiller up the rudder to expose the key. Remove the
key.
-
Slack the packing gland nut.
CHAPTER V
ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY
SECTION III
STEERING GEAR
REFERENCES
-
PTF-17-203-4315065 - Steering Arrangement Mounting
-
PTF-17-519-4315072 - Rudder
-
PTF-17-119-4315073 - Rudder Port
-
PIF-17-145-4315018 - Docking Plan
REMOVING RUDDER
The rudder is held in place by four bolts through the tiller and will
drop out of the boot if these bolts are removed. The procedure for
removing the rudders is as follows:
-
Disconnect the hydraulic cylinder from the tiller.
-
Disconnect the tiller cross connect bar at the tiller.
-
Disconnect and remove either the emergency steering shaft or the
rudder angle indicator depending on which rudder is to be
removed.
-
Using an eye bolt in the top of the rudder, rig a cable to the
bracket under the deck above to support the rudder.
-
Remove the four bolts in the tiller.
-
Slide the tiller up the rudder to expose the key. Remove the
key.
-
Slack the packing gland nut.
-
The rudder may now be lowered from the boat. The Docking Plan shows
the clearance necessary to remove the rudder.
Reinstallation of the rudder is done in the reverse of the above
procedure except that the gland nut should not be tightened until the
rudder is completely installed and bolted up.
PACKING THE RUDDER PORT
Each rudder port is packed with eight rings of 3/8" packing. The
gland nut should be tightened periodically to stop water from entering,
but not so tight as to impair the action of the hydraulic steering. With
use, it will become necessary to repack the rudder ports. This is
accomplished as follows:
-
Slack the lock nut.
-
Completely unscrew the gland nut and in some fashion prop it up
against the underside of the rudder shelf.
-
Remove the gland and prop it us inside the nut.
-
Reinstall eight rings of 3/8" packing.
-
Replace the gland and nut and tighten until water ceases to
flow.
-
Replace the lock nut.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
One should not attempt to disassemble the parts of the hydraulic
system, but rather to change them as complete components. Once the lines
have been broken to replace a component, the bleeding procedure outlined
in the Hynautic Service Manual supplied aboard the boat should be carried
out.
CHAPTER V
ASSEMBLY AND DISASSEMBLY
SECTION IV
REMOVAL OF TANKS
REFERENCES
-
PTF-17-113-3415048 - Fuel Tank Mounting
-
PTF-17-113-3415071 - Miscellaneous Foundations
-
PTF-17-107-4315005 - Deck Construction
FRESH WATER TANK
The fresh water tank is installed on ships centerline between frames 21
and 24. The removal of this tank is done by the following procedure:
-
Remove crew's table.
-
Remove seat attached to Bulkhead 24.
-
Remove tank mounting brackets.
-
Drain tank.
-
Remove fill connection.
-
Remove three suction and one vent lines.
-
Tank may now be lifted straight up and out.
-
To remove from boat, the forward soft patch must be removed. The
tank is re-installed in the reverse of the above procedure.
FUEL OIL TANKS
There are ten fuel storage tanks in each boat. These tanks can be
removed from the boat by the following procedure.
TANKS 01, 02
-
Remove all fuel from the tanks to be removed.
-
Remove the aft soft patch.
-
Remove the manifold tank vents
-
Remove the fuel transfer pump.
-
Remove the lube and coolant tank vents.
-
Remove the rectifier a7d 32-volt distribution panel.
-
Remove the aft vertical tank braces.
-
Remove the tank spreaders and hold down straps.
-
Remove the tank hand hole with the valve attached.
-
Remove the sight gauge glass but not the valve.
-
Disconnect the vent and fill pipes.
-
Disconnect the ground strap.
-
The tanks may now-be slid aft and hoisted out of the boot.
The tanks are reinstalled in the reverse of the above procedure.
TANKS 5, 7, 6 &,8.
-
Empty the fuel from the tanks to be removed.
-
Tanks 5 or 6 must be removed first before 7 or 8 may be
removed.
-
Remove the vents and fills.
-
Remove the spreader and hold down straps.
-
Remove the sight gauge glass but not the valve.
-
Remove the tank hand hole cover and valve.
-
Remove the ground strap.
-
The C02 line might have to be removed on the starboard side only. :
-
Tanks 5 or 6 may now be blocked up and slid out and removed from
the boat.
-
Tank 7 or 8 may then be slid forward and out for removal. these
tanks are reinstalled in the reverse of the above procedure.
TANKS 1, 3, 2 & 4
-
Tank 02 must be removed to remove any of the above tanks
-
Tank 3 and 4 must be removed in order to remove tanks 1 and 2
-
Drain tanks to be removed
-
Remove spreaders and hold down straps
-
Remove fill and vent lines
-
Remove ground strap.
-
Remove hand hole plate and valve.
-
Remove sight gauge glass but not valve
-
Tanks 3 or 4 may now be moved to the center of the ship, then aft
to the center, then aft and out.
-
Then tanks 1 or 2 may be moved to the center of the ship, then aft
to the center, then aft and out
These tanks may be reinstalled in reverse of the above procedure.
LUBE OIL & COOLANT STORAGE TANK
The lube oil and coolant storage tanks are removed by the following
procedure:
-
Drain the tank.
-
Remove vent and fill pipes.
-
Remove supply line, valve and pipe nipple from aft end of
tank.
-
Remove tank hold-down bracket.
-
Tank may now be removed by lifting outboard side first to clear
fuel tank mount and then straight up.
-
To remove from boat the oft soft patch must be removed.
MANIFOLD TANK
The fuel manifold tank can be removed by the following procedure:
-
Drain the tank.
-
Disconnect the main feed, the two suction and two return
lines.
-
Disconnect the vent line.
-
Remove the mounting brackets.
-
The tank may now be removed from the boat..
The reinstallation of this tank is done in the reverse of the above
procedure.
LUBE OIL SERVICE TANK
The lube oil service tanks located in the forward end of the
engine room must be removed through the main engine hatch opening. These
tanks may be removed by the following procedure:
-
Drain the tank
-
Disconnect the two return lines on the top of the tank.
-
Disconnect the vent line on the top.
-
Disconnect the main engine returns at the hose connection to the
tank.
-
Disconnect main engine supply line, but do not remove 4"
diaphragm valve. Tank ;s easily removed with valve attached.
-
Disconnect Vee-Drive supply line.
-
Disconnect priming supply line.
-
Remove sight glass.
-
Remove top support bracket.
-
Remove bolts through engine girder.
-
Tank may now be lifted pushing top of tank outboard over vee-drive
and lifting the bottom straight up.
The tank is reinstalled in the reverse of the above procedure.
COOLANT HEADER TANK
The coolant header tank located in the wings of the engine room access
hatch, is equipped with a cleanout plate removable on deck. Should the
tank have to be removed, it is done as follows:
-
Drain the tank.
-
Remove the three hose connections from the bottom of the
tank.
-
Remove the sight gauge and valve.
-
Remove the bolts around -he square perimeter above deck and pull
the tank upwards.
The tanks may be reinstalled in the reverse of the above
procedure.
CHAPTER V
SECTION V
SEAWATER STRAINER
REFERENCE
DISASSEMBLY
The main engine duplex strainers is constructed of aluminum-bronze with
all connections made with vee clamp around machined flanges (See Ref.). To
clean the strainer basket in either side of the strainer, do the
following
-
Open the opposite half of the strainer by turning its large tee
handle counter clock wise .
-
Move the slide valve towards the strainers to be cleaned.
-
Close the strainer to be cleaned by turning its tee handle
clockwise .
-
Unscrew the clamp securing the lid and remove the lid.
-
The wire basket may now be pulled straight up and out.
-
The strainer and lid should be reinstalled after cleaning; how-
ever, the valves need not be switched over until it is necessary to
clean the other strainer.
In disassembling the strainer for repairs, the reference drawings
should be consulted. Do not remove the ball housing from the hull unless
it is absolutely necessary because the spacing between ball housing and
their vertical alignment is critical to the alignment of the cross slide
valve.
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